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The Complete Paint Guide

The right paint for every material — indoors and out.

No more guessing in the B&Q aisle. We get asked daily: can I use masonry paint on a fence? What paint sticks to a plastic drainpipe? Here's the honest, practical answer for every surface — written by working painters in East Fife.

Exterior materialsInterior materialsCommon questions

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The Complete Paint Guide for Every Material

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Jump straight to your material

MasonryWooden fences (rough sawn & smooth)Garden deckingWrought ironuPVC windowsPlastic guttering & drainpipes (PVCu)CladdingConcrete floorsRoof tiles & felted roofsPlaster walls (loungeCeilingsSkirtingsRadiatorsKitchen cabinetsMDFTiles

Five rules that beat any specific product

Brands change, formulations get tweaked. These principles don't.

Match the paint to the substrate

Wood moves; paint must flex. Masonry barely moves; paint can be rigid. Plastic is slick; paint must bond chemically. The right paint for the surface beats the most expensive paint in the wrong place every time.

Old buildings need to breathe

Pre-1919 stone, lime harling and traditional render breathe moisture in and out. Acrylic paint traps it. For old buildings always use breathable mineral or limewash paints.

Prep is 80% of the job

Clean, dry, keyed and primed beats premium paint applied to a dirty surface every single time. Skip the prep and the most expensive paint in the world will fail.

Two thin coats > one thick coat

Thick coats sag, dry skinned-on-top, and crack as they cure underneath. Thin coats level beautifully and cure properly all the way through.

Stay within the system

Use the primer and topcoat from the same product family where possible. Mixing brands of primer + topcoat is the #1 cause of premature failure we see.

Respect the weather window

In Fife the realistic outdoor painting window is mid-April to mid-October — and even then watch the dew point. Rain within 4 hours of finishing = ruined work. Use our weather page before booking your day.

Part 1 — Exterior

Outside the house — what to put on every surface.

Coastal East Fife is one of the most demanding paint environments in Scotland — salt air, driving rain, freeze-thaw and serious UV in summer. Every recommendation here factors that in.

Exterior

Masonry, harling, render & pebbledash

The painted skin of most Fife houses. The single biggest factor is whether the wall needs to breathe — modern cement render or block walls can take a standard acrylic masonry paint, but anything pre-1919 (stone, lime harling, traditional render) needs a breathable mineral or silicate paint or you will trap moisture and cause real damage.

Use this

Modern smooth or textured render, blockwork

Acrylic / smooth masonry paint (Dulux Weathershield, Sandtex 365, Crown Sandtex). Reliable, 15-year life on a clean surface.

Old stone, lime harling, pre-1919 walls

Mineral silicate or limewash (Earthborn Silicate, Beeck, Keim). Breathable. Bonds chemically to mineral substrates.

Heavy texture / pebbledash

Flexible textured masonry (Sandtex Ultra Smooth Masonry or Dulux Weathershield Smooth) applied generously with a long-pile roller.

Avoid

Plastic-feel acrylic on old stone

Traps damp behind the coating — leads to spalling, blown harling, internal mould. The most expensive mistake we see.

Emulsion / interior paint outdoors

Will fail within one Fife winter — driving rain just lifts it.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Jet wash or scrub off all algae, lichen and chalk back to a sound surface.
  2. 2Treat any green growth with a fungicidal wash and let dry fully.
  3. 3Stabilise chalky old surfaces with a masonry stabilising solution before topcoats.
  4. 4Fill cracks with the matching system (lime mortar for old, flexible exterior filler for modern).

Local pro tip

In coastal Fife (Tayport, Kingsbarns, Crail, St Andrews, East Neuk) salt accelerates everything — we add a third coat to north-facing and seafront walls as standard.

Exterior

Wooden fences (rough sawn & smooth)

Probably our most-asked question: 'Can I just use masonry paint on the fence?' — please don't. Masonry paint is rigid; fence boards move constantly with humidity and the coating will craze, peel and look terrible inside two seasons. Use a product designed to flex and let timber breathe.

Use this

Rough sawn / feather-edge fencing

Penetrating fence stain (Cuprinol Garden Shades, Ronseal Fence Life Plus, Barrettine Wood Preserver). Sinks into the grain, no peeling, easy to refresh.

Smooth planed / featheredge premium fences

Solid colour exterior wood paint (Cuprinol Garden Shades or Sadolin Superdec opaque) — heavier coverage, more colour choice, longer life.

Bare new pressure-treated timber

Wait 6–12 weeks for the treatment to weather, then apply a quality stain. Painting too soon = no adhesion.

Avoid

Masonry paint on any fence

Rigid film vs moving timber = guaranteed flaking. Hard to fix later because masonry paint blocks stain absorption.

Interior wood paint outdoors

No UV stabilisers, no fungicide. Fades to chalk in one season.

Creosote

Banned for amateur use in the UK since 2003. Don't be tempted by old stock at boot sales.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Brush off cobwebs, dust and loose debris with a stiff brush.
  2. 2Light jet wash or scrub with diluted fence cleaner to kill algae.
  3. 3Allow 48 hours of dry weather before staining.
  4. 4Mask plants with old sheets and protect the soil line with cardboard.

Local pro tip

Two thinner coats always outperform one thick coat. On rough sawn, three coats on south-facing panels — they get hammered by UV.

Exterior

Garden decking

Decking is the hardest-working timber on any property — sun, rain, foot traffic, furniture. Treat it like a floor, not a fence. The right product is a decking-specific stain or oil; never a standard fence paint or masonry paint, both of which will peel under foot traffic within months.

Use this

Softwood decking (most common)

Dedicated decking stain (Ronseal Ultimate Protection, Cuprinol Anti-Slip Decking Stain, Barrettine Decking Stain). Anti-slip versions add fine grit.

Hardwood decking (oak, ipe, balau)

Decking oil (Osmo Decking Oil, Owatrol Textrol). Penetrates rather than coats — keeps the natural look.

Older grey weathered decking

Restorer first (Owatrol Net-Trol or Ronseal Decking Cleaner & Reviver) to bring back the colour, then stain or oil.

Avoid

Standard fence paint on decking

Not film-rated for foot traffic — peels in patches under feet and furniture legs.

Floor paint / gloss

Forms a film that traps moisture; combined with foot wear it lifts, then water gets under and rots the boards.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Sweep, then jet wash on a fan setting at low–medium pressure (high pressure tears the wood fibres).
  2. 2Apply decking cleaner / brightener while damp; rinse and let dry 48 hours.
  3. 3Lightly sand any furred grain with 80–120 grit before staining.
  4. 4Apply with a decking pad or wide brush along the grain — never across.

Local pro tip

Re-coat every 18–24 months in Fife. We jet wash, restore and re-stain in one visit — done before lunch on most domestic decks.

Exterior

Wrought iron, railings, gates & metal furniture

Metal needs a system that bites the substrate, blocks rust and stays flexible enough to handle thermal movement. The single biggest issue we see is people slapping a topcoat over rust without a primer. Always primer first.

Use this

Iron / steel railings, gates, balcony rails

Hammerite Direct to Rust (smooth or hammered) — single product handles primer + topcoat. Or a proper system: Zinsser Allcoat primer + exterior gloss.

Galvanised metal (sheds, fence posts, downpipes)

A galvanised primer (Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Mordant Solution) then any exterior topcoat. Skipping the primer = peeling in months.

Garden furniture, cast aluminium

Self-etching aerosol primer + exterior aerosol topcoat. Fast and even.

Avoid

Topcoat over active rust

Rust keeps spreading under the paint. Always wire-brush back and treat with a rust converter first.

Standard wood gloss on metal

No corrosion inhibitors — it will lift in patches.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Wire brush or angle-grinder cup brush off all loose rust and flaking paint.
  2. 2Wipe down with white spirit to remove oil and waxes.
  3. 3Apply rust converter to any pitted areas; allow to turn black.
  4. 4Mask glass and brickwork generously — direct-to-rust paints are gloopy.

Exterior

uPVC windows, doors & cladding

You absolutely can paint uPVC — but only with a uPVC-specific paint system. The smooth shiny surface rejects almost everything else. Done properly, a uPVC repaint lasts 8–10 years and is a fraction of the cost of replacement windows.

Use this

White uPVC windows, doors, cladding, conservatories

Zinsser Allcoat Exterior (water-based, uPVC-rated) or Dulux Weathershield Multi-Surface. Bondz primer underneath for absolute belt-and-braces adhesion.

Composite / GRP front doors

Same system — clean with sugar soap, key with a fine pad, prime with a multi-surface bonding primer, two thin topcoats.

Avoid

Standard gloss / eggshell on uPVC

No mechanical or chemical bond — peels off in sheets within a year.

Painting in direct sun on uPVC

The plastic expands fast and the paint film tears as it cures.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Wash thoroughly with sugar soap — uPVC holds invisible silicone film from the factory.
  2. 2Lightly key the surface with a fine sanding pad (240 grit equivalent).
  3. 3Mask glass, seals and brickwork meticulously — overspray on uPVC trim looks awful.
  4. 4Two thin coats with a fine foam roller, tipped off with a high-quality synthetic brush.

Local pro tip

Pick a colour that's lighter, not darker. Dark colours on uPVC absorb heat, expand, and stress the paint film. Anthracite grey works because it's pigmented to reflect IR — random dark blue from the colour chart probably won't.

Exterior

Plastic guttering & drainpipes (PVCu)

The other classic question: 'What paint sticks to a plastic drainpipe?' Same principle as uPVC windows — you need a paint that's chemically formulated to bond with PVC, and the right prep matters more than the paint.

Use this

White / black PVC guttering, downpipes, soil pipes

Zinsser Allcoat Exterior (water-based) or Plastic Magic primer + any exterior satin / gloss. Hammerite Garage Door Paint also bonds well to PVC and holds up in driving rain.

Cast-iron-style hopper heads (modern PVC replicas)

Same system — undo the brackets if possible to paint behind the pipe and avoid the picture-frame line.

Avoid

Emulsion or interior wood paint

No flex, no bond — falls off in winter.

Spray-painting in cold or damp weather

Water-based plastic primers need 10°C+ to cure. In Fife that means May–September realistically.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Scrub with sugar soap to remove the slick factory release agent.
  2. 2Light key with a 240 grit pad — feel for grip rather than sanding heavily.
  3. 3Wipe down with methylated spirits just before painting.
  4. 4Mask the wall behind with a long strip of card; drips will run.

Exterior

Cladding, summer houses, garden offices, sheds

Different rules from fencing because these are buildings — they hold heat, deal with condensation, and you usually want a richer finish. Use a microporous wood paint or premium opaque wood stain that flexes with the timber and lets it breathe.

Use this

Painted summer houses, garden offices, sheds

Sadolin Superdec, Sikkens Rubbol, Dulux Weathershield Exterior High Gloss / Satin (for trim only). Microporous so they let moisture out.

Stained / natural look cladding

Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus + Cetol Filter 7 Plus (translucent), or Sadolin Classic. Three-coat system for proper coastal Fife conditions.

Cedar shingle cladding

Leave bare to silver naturally, or use a cedar-specific oil (Owatrol Textrol). Don't paint cedar — kills its natural durability.

Avoid

Standard masonry paint

Same problem as fencing — wood moves, paint cracks.

Old-school solvent gloss

Now banned over a certain VOC level for good reason; brittle, yellows fast, traps moisture.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Sand back any flaking previous coats to bare wood.
  2. 2Treat knots with knotting solution.
  3. 3Apply microporous primer if going to opaque colour.
  4. 4Always paint the end-grain — that's where rot starts.

Exterior

Concrete floors, garage floors, patios, paths

Painting concrete is rarely about looks alone — it's about sealing, dust-proofing and giving slip resistance. Standard masonry paint will not last on a floor; you need a dedicated floor paint or epoxy.

Use this

Garage floors, workshop floors

Two-pack epoxy floor paint (Blackfriar, Watco) or single-pack acrylic floor paint (Coo-Var Suregrip). Anti-slip grit additive available.

Patios, paths (decorative finish)

Coloured patio paint (Thompson's Coloured Patio & Paving Seal, Resincoat). Apply only to dry, clean concrete.

Sealing without colour

Clear acrylic concrete sealer (Everbuild 405). Locks in dust, repels oil, leaves natural look.

Avoid

Masonry paint on a floor

Wears off in tyre tracks within weeks.

Sealing brand-new concrete

Wait 28 days minimum for the slab to cure or you trap moisture inside it.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Acid-etch new concrete or scarify old concrete to give the paint something to bite.
  2. 2Degrease oily patches with proprietary concrete degreaser.
  3. 3Apply thinned first coat as a primer (around 10% water for water-based products).

Exterior

Roof tiles & felted roofs

Honest answer: in 95% of cases we'd advise people not to paint their roof tiles. The cosmetic gain is short-lived, it can void warranties, and it traps moisture in concrete tiles. There are exceptions, and we'll cover both.

Use this

If you must paint concrete roof tiles

Specialist roof coating (Smartseal, Roof Revive). Always factor in the cost of safe access — the paint is the cheapest part of the job.

Felted flat roofs

Acrylic roof coating (Aquaseal 4-Star, Thompson's Solar Reflective). Cools the roof in summer, extends the felt life by years.

Metal roofs (corrugated tin, profiled steel)

Zinc-rich primer + acrylic metal roof paint (Coo-Var Roof Paint). Rust-inhibiting and flexible.

Avoid

Painting clay tiles

Won't adhere properly long-term — and ruins the look of a beautiful natural material.

Painting slate

Slate is graded; coatings just hide the issue and reduce resale appeal.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Get safe access first — scaffolding or a roofer with tower kit.
  2. 2Power wash off all moss and lichen, then biocide treatment.
  3. 3Allow a week of dry weather before applying coatings.

Part 2 — Interior

Inside the house — finish, durability, no smell.

Modern water-based paints have transformed interior decorating — fast drying, almost no smell, tough finishes, no yellowing. There are very few reasons left to use old-school oil-based paint indoors.

Interior

Plaster walls (lounge, bedroom, hallway)

Standard interior emulsion is the right choice — but the finish matters more than you'd think. Get the right sheen for the room and you'll save yourself repainting in three years.

Use this

New plaster (first coats)

Mist coat — emulsion thinned 30% with water for the very first coat to soak in and bond. Then two full coats of matt emulsion.

Living rooms, bedrooms

Matt emulsion (Dulux Easycare, Crown Easyclean Matt, Farrow & Ball Modern Emulsion). Hides imperfections, soft finish.

Hallways, stairs, kids' rooms

Eggshell or scrubbable matt (Dulux Diamond Eggshell, Little Greene Intelligent Matt). Tougher, washable, shrugs off scuffs.

Family bathrooms (steam, no shower)

Bathroom emulsion (Dulux Easycare Bathroom, Crown Bathroom Mid-Sheen). Mould-inhibitors built in.

Avoid

Full-strength emulsion on bare new plaster

Doesn't bond — peels in sheets later. Always mist coat first.

Standard matt emulsion in steamy bathrooms

Mould blooms in the corners within a year.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Fill all dings with lightweight filler; sand smooth.
  2. 2Sugar soap then rinse to remove cooking grease, hand prints, candle smoke.
  3. 3Cut in carefully with a quality 50mm angled brush — that's where you see craftsmanship.

Interior

Ceilings

Ceilings are easier than walls but unforgiving — every roller mark shows. Use a dedicated ceiling paint or a good matt emulsion in pure white. Sheen on a ceiling is a nightmare; stick to matt.

Use this

Standard plasterboard ceilings

Dedicated ceiling paint (Dulux Easycare Ceiling, Crown Ceiling). Less drip, longer wet edge — easier to roll.

Bathroom / kitchen ceilings

Bathroom-grade emulsion in white. Mould resistance is essential where steam rises.

Old artex / textured ceilings

Long-pile (12–15mm) roller and a thicker emulsion. Test a corner first — some pre-2000 artex contains asbestos and must not be sanded or scraped.

Avoid

Silk on a ceiling

Catches every imperfection in the plasterboard joints.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Lay dust sheets like you're building a stage — ceiling work drips everywhere.
  2. 2Cut in with a brush, then roll in 1m-square sections in one direction.
  3. 3Two coats minimum, especially if covering smoke, water stains or strong colour.

Interior

Skirtings, architraves, doors & window boards

Modern water-based satinwood and eggshell are the right answer for almost everyone — fast drying, low odour, doesn't yellow. Old-school oil-based gloss yellows badly within two years and the smell is brutal.

Use this

Skirtings, architraves, doors

Water-based satinwood or eggshell (Dulux Quick Dry Satinwood, Tikkurila Helmi, Little Greene Intelligent Eggshell). Tough, washable, ages well.

Heavy-traffic doors (front of door, back of door)

Same products in eggshell — slightly more durable than satin.

Bare new wood (knotty pine, oak)

Knotting solution + water-based wood primer + two topcoats.

Previously gloss-painted woodwork

Sand to a key, prime with a bonding primer (Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3), then water-based topcoats.

Avoid

Oil-based gloss on white woodwork

Yellows in months especially in north-facing rooms. There's almost no reason to use it now.

Walking on freshly painted woodwork too soon

Water-based paints feel dry in 1 hour but take 7 days to cure fully.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Light sand all surfaces with 180 grit — gloss won't bond to glossy old paint without a key.
  2. 2Wipe off all dust with a tack cloth.
  3. 3Use a quality synthetic brush — natural bristles drag in water-based paint.
  4. 4Two thin coats always beat one thick one.

Interior

Radiators

Yes, radiators can be painted any colour — but the paint must be heat-resistant and apply when the rad is cool and off. Standard satinwood works on a cold radiator but eventually yellows from heat cycles.

Use this

Standard panel radiators

Dedicated radiator enamel (Hammerite Radiator Enamel, Rust-Oleum Radiator Spray). Heat-cured by the radiator itself once turned back on.

Cast iron radiators

Same product — but two thin coats. Cast iron radiates more heat and stresses thin paint.

Towel rails (chrome / stainless)

Don't paint these — the chrome will show through and look streaky. Replace if you want a different colour.

Avoid

Standard wall emulsion on radiators

Cracks and discolours fast.

Painting a hot radiator

Paint dries before it levels — leaves brush marks forever.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Turn radiator off and let it cool completely (at least 4 hours).
  2. 2Sand any rust or chips, prime with a metal primer.
  3. 3Two thin coats with a small foam roller; tip off with a fine brush.
  4. 4Leave 24 hours before turning the heating back on.

Interior

Kitchen cabinets, wardrobes & built-ins

The biggest-bang-for-buck home upgrade we do. The trick is the prep and the right primer — a kitchen cabinet repaint that fails fails because of bonding, not the topcoat.

Use this

Wood, MDF or melamine cabinet doors

Bonding primer (Zinsser Allcoat or Bullseye 1-2-3) + premium water-based satinwood (Tikkurila Helmi 30, Little Greene Intelligent, Frenchic Al Fresco).

Laminate / vinyl-wrapped doors

Same system — but extra prep is non-negotiable. Adhesion test on a hidden corner first.

Solid oak shaker doors

Sand back, knotting solution, primer, two topcoats — gives a factory finish if done patiently.

Avoid

Skipping the bonding primer

Cabinet faces get hand grease, cooking oil and constant wear — without the primer the topcoat lifts in months.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Take all doors and drawers off and number them on the inside of the hinge.
  2. 2Degrease with sugar soap, twice — kitchens hide invisible cooking film.
  3. 3Sand all surfaces to a fine key.
  4. 4Spray-finish ideally; otherwise mini-roller + tipping brush in a dust-free spare room.
  5. 5Allow 7 days to harden before reattaching and 14 days before heavy use.

Interior

MDF, new pine, fitted shelving

MDF and bare softwood drink paint. Always prime — without it you'll be on coat four and still seeing patchy finish. Cut MDF edges drink even more; seal them with watered-down PVA or MDF primer first.

Use this

Bare MDF shelving, panelling, alcoves

Acrylic MDF primer (Zinsser BIN MDF, Tikkurila Otex) + water-based satinwood.

Bare softwood (pine, redwood)

Knotting solution + acrylic primer + topcoats.

Cut MDF edges

Two coats of watered-down PVA, light sand, then primer. Stops the fluffy edge.

Avoid

Topcoat straight onto raw MDF

Patchy, fluffy, never looks finished.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Fill any gaps with decorator's caulk.
  2. 2Sand smooth between coats — MDF lifts grain when first painted.
  3. 3Three coats minimum: primer + two topcoats.

Interior

Tiles, splashbacks & tile floors

Yes, you can paint tiles — and a tile-paint refresh can transform a 1990s bathroom or kitchen for a fraction of replacement cost. The system has to bond to glaze, which means a specialist tile primer.

Use this

Wall tiles, splashbacks

Tile-specific primer (Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3 or Ronseal One Coat Tile Paint) + acrylic eggshell topcoat for low-splash areas.

Floor tiles in low-traffic rooms

Two-pack epoxy tile paint (V33 Renovation Tile Paint) — much tougher film for foot traffic.

Around bath / shower (constant wet)

Honestly — re-tile or use Bath Renovation enamel (Plasti-kote, Ronseal Bath & Sink). Standard tile paint will fail in the splash zone.

Avoid

Tile paint on shower walls

No paint reliably survives daily showering. Don't do it.

Prep checklist

  1. 1Scrub tiles with sugar soap; remove all soap scum and limescale.
  2. 2Lightly key the glaze with 240 grit pad.
  3. 3Re-grout any failed grout BEFORE painting.
  4. 4Three thin coats with a fine foam roller.

Common Questions

The questions we get asked most.

Pulled straight from real conversations on driveways across East Fife.

Can I use masonry paint on my wooden fence?

Please don't. Masonry paint is rigid and fence boards move with humidity — it'll crack and peel within two seasons. Worse, you can't easily fix it because masonry paint blocks fence stain from absorbing later. Use a dedicated fence stain or solid-colour wood paint.

What paint sticks to a plastic drainpipe?

Zinsser Allcoat Exterior or Plastic Magic primer + a normal exterior topcoat. The secret is the prep: scrub with sugar soap to remove the slick factory release agent, then key it with a fine sanding pad. Skip the prep and any paint will peel off in winter.

Can I paint uPVC windows? They told me you can't.

You absolutely can — but only with a uPVC-rated paint system (Zinsser Allcoat, Dulux Weathershield Multi-Surface). Properly done, a uPVC repaint lasts 8–10 years and costs a fraction of replacement windows. Anthracite grey from white is our most-asked job.

Why does my old gloss skirting board look yellow?

Oil-based gloss yellows over time — it's the linseed oil binder reacting with light (or lack of light, in north-facing rooms). Sand back, prime with a stain-blocking primer like Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3, and finish with a modern water-based satinwood. Doesn't yellow.

Can I just paint over my pebbledash?

Yes — with a textured masonry paint like Sandtex Ultra Smooth applied with a long-pile (15mm) roller. Pebbledash drinks paint, so budget for three coats and watch for chalky residue from old painted layers; stabilise with a masonry sealer first if needed.

Do I really need to wait 6 weeks before painting a new fence?

Yes, if it's pressure-treated (most are). The treatment chemicals need to weather and the wood needs to dry below ~18% moisture before any stain or paint will properly absorb. Paint too early and it sits on top, never penetrating, and peels.

What's the difference between fence paint, fence stain and wood preserver?

Stain penetrates and colours the wood (no peeling, easy to refresh). Paint forms a film on top (more colour choice, more vivid, but can flake if applied wrong). Preserver is a clear or lightly tinted protective treatment for raw timber — usually used as a base coat. For most fences in Fife we recommend stain.

Can I use leftover interior paint outdoors?

No. Interior emulsion has no UV stabilisers and no fungicide — it'll go chalky and grow algae within one Fife winter. The only exception is interior bathroom paint inside a covered porch or summer house, where it might survive a season.

Ready to reclaim your space?

Get in touch with us today. Free consultation. No obligation. Just honest advice about what your transformation might look like.

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